TENGZHOU, China (Reuters) — In an office reeking of cigarettes, Dang Yangyang slouches on a black leather sofa in exhaustion.
The general manager at Wintop Food has spent recent days chaperoning clients from Ghana, Iraq, Jordan, Russia and Senegal.
They all want the same thing: Chinese chicken.
Wintop processes 60 million chickens annually, selling breasts, nuggets, meatballs and dumplings to more than 20 countries.
Exports accounted for half of its profits last year and are underwriting 33 acres of expansion.
“International clients used to distrust the quality,” Dang, 44, told Reuters during a tour of his facilities in August.
“But when the meat is $1,000 cheaper per ton than Brazilian and Thai competitors, they have to either buy from China or lose out." The company is part of a wave of Chinese protein producers overcoming the country’s patchy food-safety record and leveraging additional capacity to seize space on global supermarket shelves.
Changing diets at home and Beijing’s emphasis on food security have pushed companies to invest in technology and expansion.
Now, they produce more than China can consume and are unloading excess production abroad.
The surge in cheap Chinese protein is drawing scrutiny from Western producers and regulators, signaling fresh trade friction.
The pattern echoes Beijing's strategy in steel, solar panels and electric vehicles — flooding markets with low-priced products that undercut global rivals.
In July, the European Commission launched an anti-dumping probe into Pekin duck imports after local producers alleged Chinese subsidies created unfair competition.
Last month, the commission imposed anti-dumping duties of between 41% and 67% on Chinese pea protein.
Chicken has so far avoided the same action, though European authorities are monitoring the market, a commission spokesperson told Reuters.
Agriculture and food are among the few categories where China still runs a trade deficit.
At just over $100 billion last year, the gap is massive but shrinking.
China, already the world’s largest source of seafood exports, last year became a net exporter of chicken.
Overall, China exported $2.6 billion worth of chicken products last year, almost double 2020 levels, customs data show.
Dairy exports are on track to hit $600 million this year, doubling in three years.
For global consumers, the trend means cheaper protein.
For foreign producers from Europe to Thailand and Brazil, it means new competitors.
China’s shift from buyer to emerging exporter is having a “disruptive” effect on the global meat market, said Michael Boddington, a Beijing-based agribusiness consultant.
In Asia, he said, shipments traditionally flowed in from Europe and the Americas.
Now, there's a cheaper alternative — and producers globally are scrambling to compete.
China’s agriculture and commerce ministries didn’t respond to Reuters questions about the country’s burgeoning protein exports.
Urbanites shun pork For decades, protein in China meant pork.
Pigs fed the workers who built the cities and staffed the factories that powered the country's economic boom.
China became home to half the world’s hogs, whose appetite for grain, especially soybeans, redrew trade flows from the U.S.
Midwest to Brazil.
The country’s appetite for pork provided livelihoods for small farmers like Huang Weiying, who started raising pigs in her village in Hebei province 20 years ago, owning more than 500 at a peak.
But that era is over.
When Reuters visited Huang in August, she was tossing slop to her last 10 hogs in a cobweb-covered barn.
Some $75,000 in debt, she planned to slaughter them by autumn.
“I have been raising pigs for over two decades, but it has never been as hard as the last two years,” Huang, 57, said.
“Pig prices are so low.
People in the cities just stopped eating pork.” The fatty pork cuts common in traditional Chinese cuisine have fallen out of favor with health-conscious urbanites.
Per-capita pork consumption has fallen 13% since peaking in 2023, according to official data and state media.
Chicken intake....
